Spring is the season the kitchen looks forward to most. The water is still cold, which is good news for shellfish, and the hedgerows start giving us things we do not have to pay for.

Crab, dressed simply

The first brown crab of the year arrives in March. We pick it in the morning, dress it with lemon and a little mayonnaise made with the roe, and serve it on toast from Mei’s bread. Nothing else. It is on the lunch menu until the price climbs in June.

Wild garlic and the lane

For about five weeks the lane behind the kitchen is full of wild garlic. It goes into a butter for the grilled fish, a soup we serve at lunch and a green sauce for the lamb on the dinner menu. When it flowers we stop.

The terrace

The terrace reopens on the first dry week of April. Eight tables, blankets on the chairs and the harbour in front of you. Book it by name and we will hold it unless the forecast says otherwise.