Summer is the busiest stretch of the year and the simplest. The fish is at its best, the tomatoes arrive and the kitchen stops trying to be clever.

Bream, whole, over charcoal

From June the boats bring sea bream most mornings. Tom scores the skin, salts it and grills it whole over charcoal until the skin blisters. It comes to the table with lemon, olive oil and a bowl of green leaves. Two people share one fish comfortably.

Tomatoes and bread

For six weeks we get tomatoes from a grower three miles inland that taste of something. They are served at room temperature with salt, oil and bread, and we do not apologise for charging for them.

Why lunch

Lunch is quieter, the light is better and the two-course menu is the best value we offer all year. If you want the harbour without the evening bustle, book a table at half past twelve.